Monday Whispers: Hugo Roellinger Breton 3 Star? l’Astrance finally reopens, a new shocking duo for Alpaga from Megève and three for the Dufour brothers in Paris, surreal 3 stars in California, discover Jérémy Lasserre in Comminges, the next generation in Botanists | Blog of Žilo Pudlovski

Monday Whispers: Hugo Roellinger Breton 3 Star?  l'Astrance finally reopens, a new shocking duo for Alpaga from Megève and three for the Dufour brothers in Paris, surreal 3 stars in California, discover Jérémy Lasserre in Comminges, the next generation in Botanists |  Blog of Žilo Pudlovski

Hugo Roellinger, 3 stars from Brittany?

Hugo Roelinger and Château Richeux © GP

He took care of the house that was his father’s annex when he had three stars on Bricourt and managed to do what many suggested: to transport his big table there. He reduced the number of covers and eliminated the tables in the two magical rooms of Château Richeux, with a wide view of Mont Saint Michel, working only with local and nearby products, precious crustaceans and shellfish, herbs from here assigned to distant spices (the one that Olivier brings from China to Cochin , across the Indian Ocean), banishes meat from a large menu in the spirit of the wind and the moon, emphasizing shellfish and crustaceans to the detriment of fish that ‘we let the winter rest, working in the company of a long-established team here, Jérôme Aumont in the kitchen, Emmanuel Ackerer in dining room, Rodolphe le Tirrand on the side of the hotel, which gently take over from generation l ‘second. Doubling its home with a modest but quality bistro, on the beach of Port Mer, where it serves the great classics of the house. A bit in the spirit of what Alexandre Gauthier, his neighbor/cousin from Montreuil-sur-Mer in the Pas-de-Calais, serves up for Anecdotes. Classic, modern, reinvented Brittany, the sea in majesty: three stars are in the air near Cancale with Hugo Roellinger. Michelin, which gives it two plus one green, could turn the latter into red. Brittany would emerge victorious…

L’Astrance is finally reopening!

Pascal Barbot at work © DR

They will be on deck from the 19th of September, the “soft open” version, the way to start, preparing for the big raout on the 31st of December with the prestigious menu (€595) and will be able to receive everyone from the beginning of January.. Pascal Barbot and Christophe Rohat , two collaborators of l’Astrance, are eagerly preparing their return after two years of toil and mixed work. Neighbor complaint, smoke extraction to be inspected, modern, comfortable and bourgeois decor installed late, covid helps, their rue de Longchamp installation in the former historical table of Joël Robuchon, in the heart of this 16th arrondissement already welcomed by Rue Beethoven, their long-awaited the new table will be a gastronomic event at the beginning of 2023. Menus for €125 (lunch) and €285.

New Astrance © DR

New shock duo for Alpaca from Meževo

Alexandre Baule and Tess Evans-Mialet © DR

You were told very early that Anthony Bisquerra had left Megève. It is a very young shock duo that will take over Alpaga from 2020, a two-star restaurant and home bistro: Alexandre Baule, who was Christian Sinicropi’s assistant at Martinez, will shine here with Savoy flavors (e.g. chartreuse veal with tail in mountain honey or even a vegetable variant around chestnuts and butter) with pastry chef Tess Evans-Mialet, with whom she will work as a pair. The latter, who is not unknown, worked with Cédric Grolet at Le Meurice, and was already setting up her creative desserts at Contraste rue d’Anjou, then at Clarence, avenue Franklin Roosevelt, both in the 8th arrondissement of Paris. Their mission will of course be to keep the stars in this beautiful Alpine residence, which was renovated last year by the architecture firm Charles & Co. Let’s add that for his part, Anthony Bisquerra, who returned to his region of origin, near Bordeaux, does not rule out a return to Savoy to deal with this mountain cuisine that suits him so well.

And three for the Dufour brothers in Paris

Adrien and Sébastien Dufour, with Carla Dias © MR

We can’t stop the Dufour brothers! We know them at Paul Chêne, rue Lauriston in Paris, not far from the Trocadéro, at Petit Chêne, rue Gros, within easy reach of the Maison de la Radio, as well as at the Comptoir des Chênes, rue de Lübeck, not far from the Palais Galliera and the Fashion Museum. Sébastien the eldest, Adrien the youngest, who seem to be working while having fun – or the opposite – somehow managed to recreate the places as before ” traditional Parisian bistros“, taking the beautiful lesson learned at the school of the Dumant brothers at the Auberge Bressane, in the Marches, or at the Paris Seize. These two revelers have something to look forward to – their parents owned the iconic Brasserie Lorraine on the Place des Ternes. Understanding all about the classic cravings of the moment for a jovial and very Parisian clientele that likes to go out without breaking the bank, they’ve created egg mayo, peppercorn-crusted beef tenderloin and real crispy fries (and homemade!) credo, all in beautiful old-fashioned decors that have been beautifully rediscovered. Now they are preparing to cross the Seine and open next spring at rue du Cherche Midi 79, “Paul Chêne rive gauche” in the former Cantine du Troquet. Casually, there is a sketch of the gourmet empire that outlines its contours. Follow closely.

Surreal 3 stars in California

Michelin California Ceremony © DR

The event of the new Michelin California 2022, featuring 89 restaurants, including 18 promoted and 7 tables crowned with 3 stars? Promotion to the highest level of Addison in San Diego, which Michelin defines as a temple of “contemporary/California cuisine”. With this enlightening text; which looks like a satirical text describing an imaginary restaurant, which could have been signed by Christian Millau in his famous “guide to ghost restaurants” where he condemned the mockery of the time: “Chef William Bradley, who has led the kitchens at Addison since 2006, has made this Southern California oasis a world-class address. The chef’s approach combines world cuisine and Californian sensibilities. The dish that best illustrates this is sesame koshihikari rice seasoned with apple-smoked sabayon and sublimated with a hint of Regiis Ova Reserve Caviar. Between chicken liver churros and a reinterpretation of chips with chef-suggested accompanying dips, the dishes served at Addison are playful yet refined. As a preamble, Kumamoto oysters garnished with pickled green strawberries, or prime golden potatoes wrapped in a slice of Iberian ham, offer a taste of the balance of flavors to come. Chawanmushi decorated with shells gives an insight into the full degree of mastery of the chef both in techniques and in the combination of flavors and textures. Finally, a superb selection of petit fours completes the meal. » If you want to bite into chicken liver churros, now you know where to go…

Discover Jérémy Lasserre at Comminges

Jérémy Lasserre © DR

Miracle of the moment in Haute-Garonne? His name is Jérémy Lasserre, he is from Toulouse, he is 39 years old, he worked together with Christian Willer at Martinez in Cannes, at Alain Ducasse in Paris (avenue Raymond Poincaré) and Moustiers (at Bastide), he traveled in Asia du Sud Est with the Intercontinental Chain, who visits Pierre Gagnaire there. Eventually he returned to the high country of the Garonne and with his family, in the Hibiscus kitchens, the beautiful table of the Hôtel du Barry in Sauveterre-de-Comminges, taken over by his baker parents (under the sign of Honoré) became a luxury for the innkeepers, who brilliantly transformed the old Relais & Châteaux under the name Hostellerie des 7 Molles, once owned by the Ferran family. Jeremy’s table is called Hibiscus. His style? Combine products from here and spices from elsewhere creating very attractive associations that are at the same time lively, creative, without weakness, rooted in the terroir of the great south of France, in this beautiful Pyrenean country called Comminges, with its beautiful villages on the slopes of the mountain, its magnificent nearby Saint-Bertrand cathedral . To find out everything, click here.

Succession of generations among botanists

Paul, Virginia, Jean-Baptiste Gay © GP

We have been following the career of Jean-Baptiste Gay for two decades, since Baptiste’s time in the 17th arrondissement when this professional pastry chef served in the dining room. Ten years ago, he took over with his wife Virginie, the former Cigale on rue Chomel, which Gérard Idoux made modern, behind the Bon Marché, which was once called Gorille Blanc. They have made this a place of good taste and good taste, which has always been a chic neighborhood bistro with literary echoes (Jacques Laurent, Prix Goncourt for “Les Bêtises”, and Michèle Perrein, Prix des Libraires for “Le Drinker of the Garonne”, who lived above, were regular residents), place of regular guests. Novelty? Their son Paul, returning from a class at Best at La Bouitte in Saint-Martin-de-Belleville, took his place with his father in the kitchen. Hence this new spirit, without a doubt more gastro than bistro, a place that is happy to play the gourmet and sophisticated port without leaving it out traditional chic welcome.

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